Wednesday, October 03, 2007

One night in Budapest


I first got word that we would have most of the weekend off on Friday morning and of course couldn’t stop thinking about what I might do with almost 48 hours to myself. As much as I have lived in Europe, one day off here and there always leaves me a bit frustrated; so many cool places so near but so little time. I knew we had practice Saturday morning, an optional shooting practice that I just might have opted out of had the “optional’ part been translated for me (then again I probably would have gone). Either way, we finished practice about 11 and I immediately said my “Ciaos” and hopped into our club’s car that would be mine for the next two days, went to two gas stations before I figured out how to work the damn pump, and was on my way south, out of Ruzomberok and on to Budapest.

I decided on Budapest mostly on recommendations from my brother, Jordan, who ditched me for a week in Istanbul on his trip to go hang out in the spas in Hungary and look at beautiful Eastern European women. All he could talk about was what a great city it was. And with three hours between myself and Budapest, there wasn’t much question where I was headed for the weekend.

I started off, immediately grateful that my dad had forced me to learn to drive on a manual transmission, and pumped up the radio volume as I danced in my seat listening to old school American hits: Tina Turner, U2, Whitney Houston, and one of the nastiest rap songs I have ever heard in my life (gotta love uncensored European Radio where people can’t understand what they are singing along to). The sun was shining as I made my way through the winding mountain highway, basking in that unique sense of freedom that comes from road trips (intensified by the fact I was all alone, headed to one of the great cities of the world, driving through the European countryside). I approached every corner with anticipation, some coming from the crazy oncoming motorcycles passing people in my lane, but mostly because every turn opened up to new landscape. The trees looked like they were purposefully clashing; one hill was completely green, another was changing to fall colors, and some couldn’t make up their mind with a lone tree doing its own thing. There were yellow and golds, browns and greens, and then out of nowhere half a tree was the brightest red I’ve ever seen in nature. I spent the whole rest of the trip searching to find it again and it wasn’t until the lowlands of Hungary that the red reappeared along the highway.

It really was a spectacular view the whole way. I drove through sleepy little villages, where I bought home made honey from a man selling from a street side stand, children playing on the street, and a sign that read “Topless Bar: joyful, calmness, erotica” which had me laughing (I love English in foreign countries…) I saw cows and sheep and a goat herder, freshly tilled soil fields, corn growing along the highway, and tractors holding up traffic. It all reminded me of the other small town I have lived in my life, except not even close to being that flat.

I arrived at the border, showed my passport to customs said “good” in Slovak and was on my way, totally excited to be in Hungary. Another hour later and I was driving into Budapest with not a clue where I was going. I finally stopped to get a map, which didn’t really help because I didn’t know where I was but the cashier told me to take a right at the next intersection. I did and somehow stumbled across the train station and made my way to the hostel. It was about 3pm by that time and after parking my car on the curb, I went up to check in and get some info. The hostel was nice, small, clean, and filled with English speakers with plans to party later. All you ever want in a hostel. I got my bearings and headed out with plans to walk to the ‘old city’, walking part way with a Canadian, traveling around Europe on his way to volunteer at an orphanage in Romania.

I was SO happy to be in new city. There has rarely been a city in the world that I haven’t walked down the streets thinking how easily I could live there and how much fun it would be. Budapest was no different. (Gotta love a city with a Buda side and a Pest side!) Plus it was a gorgeous sunny fall day as I made my way down to the Danube River and, after watching a wedding celebration outside a huge Catholic Church on the water, I started walking across the bridge, headed to Buda. What a site! The river was magnificent in itself with three huge bridges and an island on the north side. All along the water was the beautiful old European architecture, with the parliament buildings that looking like a Gothic Cathedral and the Palace, which was a maze of old cobblestone streets and courtyards hidden behind stone walls along the hill. Since I had decided to go to Budapest only the day before, I really hadn’t done much research on the city. It was kind of fun in way, to go to a city I knew almost nothing about. I kept taking pictures in front of “really cool” or “really old” things, not entirely sure what their significance was. I kept meeting Canadians on the street or on the tram, for some reason, and had some great conversations in English, which one doesn’t take for granted in my situation.

I walked along the river boardwalk, where people were sitting and drinking coffee in the sun or riding bicycles, to the tram
going straight up the hill. It was about a minute ride but the view was breathtaking and once on top you could look out over the whole city. After some pictures I started down the cobblestone paths, perusing the street vendors and marveling at the architecture all around me. I was surrounded by different sections of the palace, some that enclosed huge plazas with intricate fountains, some that opened to small courtyards with stone walls and flowers. One almost expected a horse drawn buggy to come around the corner.


When I reached the bottom I continued my loop, walking across another bridge, back to Pest where I settled in a riverside outdoor café. The meal was insignificant but the beer was fantastic and sitting on the water I was just so content watching boats go by and couples sitting on benches.

Afterwards I walked along the river, loving a culture that has everyone out on a sunny evening sipping coffee and watching the movement of people. I came across some stands where a Palinka tasting was being offered. It’s a Hungarian brandy made out of different types of fruit. Tasted a lot like fruit flavored gasoline to me but I prefer my hard alcohol made out of
potatoes.

Finally I made my way back to my hostel where I took a short nap, cleaned up a bit, and put on a dress with knee high boots. I wasn’t messing around since I didn’t know when the next time I would be able to feel like I girl would be. People don’t exactly dress up to go out in Ruzomberok. After everyone at the hostel got organized we headed out to a local bar where we ate and drank and told travel stories. Quite a mixed crowd: Hungarian, American, Canadian, New Zealander, French, Australian. After knocking back a few we hit to the streets, not before hitting up a convenience store for a “roadie” as we walked along the cobblestoned streets of Budapest..

The club was fabulous. It was in an old building with crumbling bricks and concrete everywhere that somehow looked shabby chic. It opened up to a larger open air inner courtyard where tables of people sat crammed together, drinking, smoking and talking. It was buzzing. Cities are so much fun.

I didn’t stay out late since my 24 hours in Budapest were half over so I said goodnight as the rest of the crew headed out to another club. We were all sleeping in the same dormitory room but couldn’t tell you what time they got in, I just know that I was the only one stirring at 9 am the next morning. By ten I was out the door and enjoying the sunshine as old women walked their dogs, the only people up on a sleepy Sunday morning. By the time I made my way to one of the main plazas, people were out drinking coffee in cafes, reading the paper and enjoying the 70 degree weather. I sat outside of a beautiful café, ate a chocolate croissant, drank my latte, and read my Ann Rule book. (high on the list of activities for the day was finding an English book store). I sat and enjoyed my breakfast, completely content to read my book, sip my coffee and close my eyes in the sun. Nothing makes me happier.

Eventually, I started moving and walked down to the boardwalk where I stumbled across a marathon. Surprise, the Budapest marathon was being ran so I stopped and watched. What a fun event! Makes me think for the first time, if my arches would allow me, how fun it would be to participate. People were cheering, an MC was blaring indistinguishable English names, and there was an energy in the air. I walked along the route for awhile, watching runners, looking at the water, and turned off near a large stage where children were putting on a puppet show to Hungarian music.

From there I wandered around the city, looking up at ivy covered buildings, and plants dangling from wrought iron balconies, most of the time following the marathon route by accident. I eventually made it to the large city park where huge museums and statues dotted the entrance. I walked around a small lake, under a willow tree, and came upon the cutest café I have ever seen in my life. I could hardly believe that there wasn’t a line around the lake trying to get into this place. It was built on a barge of some sort, bamboo and willow trees giving it shade, and a small bridge connecting it to the main land. A spiral staircase led to the roof terrace and huge windows opened out to the deck where I sat. I felt like I was on a houseboat, I could have knelt down and felt the water. It was about 80 degrees at this point and I watched ducks playing in the water and people laying out reading or biking or eating ice cream in the shade. I could see the marathon runners on a small bridge going over another pond in the distance, hear the cheers from fans and the percussion band playing along the marathon route.

It was getting to be mid afternoon so I started back to my car but not before perusing an English book store where I spent half the time trying to figure out if I was buying books I have already read, which I managed to do anyway. Then I went basketball shoe shopping which is always an adventure for me in Europe. Not only are the shoes expensive but many of them are black and I don’t do black basketball shoes. If there is one thing I am fussy about, its white bball shoes. The main problem however, seems to be that no one in Europe wears the same size shoe as I do. Funny how that works since their sizes are in centimeters and half centimeters. For some reason, they forget to make shoes in most models for my size 40 foot. I have small feet that fall in the no man’s land between adult and children sizes. Anyway, to make a long story long, I didn’t find any.

After finishing up my shopping, I decided it was time to leave the beautiful city and make my way north before it got dark. First I stopped in a small restaurant and had some goulash to get me through the long drive. It was about 4 pm as I drove out of Budapest and continued may way through the Hungarian farm land and villages I had just seen the day before. I was tired after the long trip but refreshed as well. Nothing like being able to pop down to Budapest for the weekend to make you appreciate where you live. We start games in two weeks and since we are playing FIBA cup we will be playing two games a week. Whoo hooo! In addition to games in Slovakia we will play in Ukraine, Hungary and either Switzerland or Vienna. Pretty pumped about that. I’ll keep you posted on my travels. Now back to ‘normal’ life…..

Ciao

(marissa send me your email!)

1 comment:

BreDub3 said...

Gotta love those Canadians!