Wednesday, January 19, 2005

When in Athens...

Its official…. I’ve been here too long. This I have recently discovered in the simple fact that I now communicate “NO” like a Greek person. Anyone who has been to Greece understands what I am talking about. Greeks don’t shake their head “NO”, they don’t even usually say the word (which is “Ohe” in Greek). They just tilt their head upwards a smidge (that’s a technical description), eyebrows raise up quickly, mouth forms a frown, and chin raises slightly. This happens quickly and discreetly and you could miss it, or misinterpret it if you aren’t looking closely. Its more similar to our “I don’t know” shrug without the shoulders.

Basically it is one of the more annoying Greek habits that, coming from the western world, drives you bonkers in the beginning. Much of this frustrations have to do with the fact that taxi drivers say “NO” a lot with their head and drive off. Leaving you with only exhaust in your face as an answer. But in the beginning I was temperamental. People would raise their eyebrows at me in response to a question and I’d be “So, no? that’s a no?” because to me it looks so passive. Its like “wellllll, yeah no, I guess.” But make no mistake about it, it means no. And once you accept that fact, life gets way easier in Greece. For awhile there I wanted to punch someone in the face every time I got the passive aggressive “No”. But eventually I learned that its just a cultural difference just like feta cheese at every meal.

But somewhere along the lines I started doing the head thing for my negative responses. I loathe myself for this. I would like to say that it is just when I am sitting down and someone comes by selling c.d.s or flowers, or tissue that I use this annoying head, eyebrow, frown, movement. But I suppose this is just how it started. See when you shake your head and they know you aren’t Greek, it can get ugly and gypsies will swarm you like easy prey. But if they think you are a local, they’ll leave you alone sooner. This is my theory and my excuse at least.

But it isn’t just when someone is asking me for money. Its all the time and I now want to punch myself in the face for doing it but I can’t help it. I have clearly been here too long. Oh well, when in Rome...

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